Saison, which means season in French, has become much the rage among American homebrewers and craft brewers alike. As a homebrewer here in NYC, I routinely see my colleagues brewing saisons, especially during the warmer summer months. Moreover, there are some great commercial saisons that come to mind, both American and Belgian. Benchmarks of the style include Brasserie Dupont’s Saison Dupont, Brassarie Fantome’s Fatome Saison, and Brooklyn’s own Sorachi Ace.
Despite the modern revival, saison has been around for more than two hundred years and brewed by traditional farmhouses to supplement workers on the field. Contrary to modern practices, the beer was usually brewed during the winter months and stored until harvest time in late summer. For homebrewers, brewing Saison in the summer is adventitious since saison yeast strains employ higher than normal fermentation temperatures.
The beer is also versatile in description. The color of the beer ranges anywhere from pale straw to light amber, and is moderately to highly hopped. The alcohol level was traditionally low, but this range has increased dramatically with some saisons approaching 8% ABV. Pilsner malt and wheat malt are usually employed as a base, but non-traditional grains, such as rye and spelt that were regionally accessible, were often added to mash to produce a unique and rustic character. Belgian or French yeast are employed to the ferment this beer, producing stone-fruit like esters and mildy pleasing phenolics. Some funk imparted by Brettanomyces can also be present. Importantly, the beer must have a unique smoothness and refreshing quality, arising from a high degree of attenuation and carbonation levels.
The last saison that I brewed was Cuvee de Bonhuer. In this case I used the Wyeast 3711 strain (French Saison). For this beer I decided to go with a mixed yeast culture - WLP565 (Belgian Saison I) and East Coast Yeast’s ECY03 (Farmhouse Brett). I’ve heard many good things about East Coast Yeast and never have been able to get my hands on some as it sells quickly. Matt Chan, a homebrewing friend of mine, gave some ECY03 to freeze down and I finally have a chance to use it. Lastly, I decided to go uber-rustic and use a significant amount of malted Spelt in the grist.
Recipe (5 gallon batch):
- 6.5 pounds of Belgian Pilsner Malt
- 4.0 pounds of Spelt Malt (Valley Malt)
- 1 pound of White Wheat Malt
- 2.4 ounces of Spelt Crystal Malt (approximately 80L)
Mashed in according to Phil Markowski’s suggestions in Farmhouse Ale’s; doughed in for a rest 131°F and did a raised temperature mash targeting both beta and alpha amylases at 144°F and 154°F. Raised temperature again for mash out at 168°F. Recirculated, took the first runnings and batched sparged to obtain 7.5 gallons of 1.041 wort. Boiled for two hours to concentrate sugars, but added hops at 60 minutes:
- 0.6 oz Sorachi Ace (60 minutes)
- 1.0 oz Sorachi Ace (5 minutes)
- 1.4 oz Sorachi Ace (0 minutes – flameout)
- Added whirlfloc and yeast nutrient at 15 minutes
Cooled to 74°F and oxygenated for 1 minute.Pitched 400 billion cells of WLP565 and ECY03.
Victuals:
OG: 1.045
FG: ?? Still fermenting
ABV: ??
IBUs: ~26 (Tinseth)

Crystal Spelt? Did you put those in the oven yourself, or do you have a source for Crystal Spelt? I usually get flaked spelt from Whole Foods (which is the only place I can find spelt in Minneapolis).
I just started drinking my ECY03 -Saison Brett. Sampling in Primary, I wasn’t getting very complex flavors at all, but now that it’s in the bottle for a couple months I’m extremely happy with the end result. I’ll have to put a tasting of it up. My guess is that that Saison strain is probably the dupont strain, but I’m not sure on which Brett is in it. Do you have anyway to identify which yeast and brett are in those ECY concoctions?
I sourced the spelt from Valley Malt:
http://www.valleymalt.com/local-barley/
It is a local organization providing locally grown barley. However, what they grow and malt changes from time to time, and I got my supply from Brooklyn Homebrew, which I believe has a contract with them. You might be able to order some through their website:
http://store.brooklyn-homebrew.com/Beer+Ingredients/Grains/Base+Malts.html
As for crystal spelt, I have no idea how they made it and I think it was mainly a bonus to the LHBS. The color was simply a guess, and don’t think they sell it.
I can definitely identify the Brett from the saison strains, but not sure I have the time to do so lately. It might be something to do in the future however.
Sounds like a great beer. I have really been enjoying the Table Strength Saisons lately and I have found they are a big crowd pleaser. The hotter the weather the more enjoyable they become.
My next Saison will use Spelt, but I will have to use flaked Spelt like Dank because that is all I can find locally.
Let us know what you think the Spelt adds to the beer.
I’ll be sure to write up a review of the beer when it is ready.
J
Great post! I love Saison’s, the ones I get mine from have viable dregs in each bottle. Nice score on the malt too. I like to dough in wheat and pilsner malt at 114*f for 15mins. It really brings out the phenolics and esters somehow. Then I raise it to 146*f for awhile then to 154*f. Can’t wait for your results!
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